Lights up on New York Fashion Week. As always, Team ITG is scoping out the backstage situation at the shows, culling beauty looks for your reading pleasure (and also pocketing some tips of our own.) This season was some of the same—it appears fresh, natural makeup isn’t going out of style anytime soon—with a few surprises along the way.
One of Tom’s favorite shows this season—with Dick Page helming makeup. It’s the winter version of no-makeup makeup; washes of grey everywhere that looked somber, but elegant. On the lids, a cocktail of grey MAC shadows layered over Coffee liner and smudged with Mixing Medium Shine. MAC’s favorite dusty pink lipstick, Brave, was pressed into the lips, and a hint of Quicktrik Contour defined cheekbones.
Oscar de la Renta
ITG was tipped off to a “really good beauty look” at Oscar before Fashion Week even began—and boy, did Tom Pecheux deliver. Color-blocked eyeshadows in viiiiiibrant sherbert hues, smoked out into the crease. Tom stacked MAC Powder Shadow on top of a thick cream line and hereby created the spring smoky eye of our dreams.
“Can you believe these girls aren’t wearing any highlighter??” proclaimed Gucci Westman backstage at Monse (conveniently located steps from Oscar). This is because of a skincare-heavy approach to a makeup look, the star of which was SK-II’s new new Aura Essence applied liberally to the face—and not a ton much else.
Zadig and Voltaire
Dick Page loves a nude eye look, so it’s no surprise that Shiseido’s forthcoming Inkstroke Eyeliner in Kuromitsu Brown, blended outward from the lashline, was the basis of the runway look. On select models, though, Dick drew a block of opaque paint in red, white, or yellow—”accessories for the face,” he called them. Cheeks and lips were the same shade of Shiseido Rouge Rouge Lipstick in Rum Punch.
Skin! Gorgeous, ethereal, only-drink-water-never-eat-pizza skin. Seriously—barely any makeup was used, save the white eyeliner on the inner corner of the eyes. Tata Harper is to thank for the flawless faces you see above—instead of starting with foundation, she double-cleaned each girl with her Nourishing Oil and Regenerating Cleanser. Plus a little Resurfacing Mask before moisturizer. That post-facial glow you get will forever be known as “Proenza skin.”
Remember last season’s Adam Selman look that was all blush and no jokes? This is that, but toned down a little bit, thanks to MAC’s Extra Dimension Strobe Blush in Into The Pink (hey, guys!!) blended throughout the crease and spilling out on to the cheekbone. The same blush was applied to the lips. We’re very touched by the homage, guys.
There was no after-party at Alexander Wang’s Fall show this year—and in case you forgot, there were about 400 items of branded merchandise to remind you—but there were theatrics, which we’ve come to expect and love from him. Nothing says drama like eyeliner, and although tightlining isn’t a new concept, it does look pretty modern here. Diane layered three different liner textures—Nars’ Larger Than Life Via Veneto, Eyeliner Stylo Carpates, and Velvet Black Moon—for some dimension.
See? False lashes can be cool. We’ll use this space to plug a future ITG story about all things falsies.
Two things made cool here: 1) That crease you sometimes get on your eyelids when you wear foundation or concealer, and 2) unibrows. For all of the shows that seemingly embraced imperfection, Tome really leaned into them.
A lowkey reverse eye contour to try, achieved with MAC Chromacake in a vibrant earthen palette.
The lip look here was candy apple red, which is to say: intense crimson shellac. Yadim used two shades of Maybelline’s Matte Liquid Lip: Orange Obession on the top and Red Punch on the bottom, with two corresponding new Hot Lacquers over top for extra gloss. There were blue lashes too, which were unfortunately canned from the runway, but Tom was able to preserve their (short) life in his pre-show snaps. This prompts the question: Can you dye fake lashes? We’ll find out and report back.
The bad news is that lip color is not from a bullet. The good news is that it’s from three new shades of the cult Nars Velvet Lip Pencils—Famous Red, Get Off, and Let’s Go Crazy—and they’re all available as of yesterday.
Two seasons of covering Brock Collection and it’s already become a mainstay for Romantic, soft makeup—big ups to key artist Benjamin Puckey for using a palette everybody can afford. But Fashion Week is all about contrast, and the nail shade, Zoya Courtney, is the perfect dirty red. It’s as if to say to the world, “I don’t give a fuck about chocolates and roses. I can do fine all by myself.”