Perhaps it is the finalist status in this year’s LVMH prize, or maybe it’s because they share a PR with fashion’s favourite brand Vetements, but whatever the catalyst, the Y/Project show last night in Paris boasted the most frantic crowd at the SS’17 presentations so far.
Luckily, after waiting for more than an hour for the show to start, the clothes didn’t disappoint. Hotpants with chaps held up with garter straps were styled with diamonte-encrusted sling-backs (which the designer admitted he picked up in Chinatown), and velvet bodycon followed satin ruffles resulting in a fabulous exercise in deliberate bad taste.
“We were going for trashy aristocrat”, said Glenn Martens, the Belgian designer behind the line, he added,”We wanted to portray a good-girl-gone-bad”. The ambitious collection of sculptural satin minidresses, hoodies and faux-pearls – not forgetting the chaps – instantly conjured the original bad gal, Riri, already a fan of the streetwear brand.
“WE WERE GOING FOR TRASHY ARISTOCRAT”
Like aforementioned French label, Vetements, the styling was part of the appeal, Martens, however, is not precious and is prepared for the whimsical looks to be pulled apart by fashion editors, saying “ I don’t think it needs to be styled as full looks, I want it to be appropriated, I’m excited to see how it will be worn”. And so will the adoring crowds of French scene-kids, who fought their way in to see the show, proving that Parisians are capable of losing their cool after all, but only if it is over fashion’s next big thing.